In Santa Monica in the 1940s Nick Gabaldon, an African American, learned to surf at a segregated beach called ‘The Inkwell’. Everyday he defied convention and paddled 12 miles north to Malibu and the best waves. Gabaldon pursued his passion to an extent most would never consider.

His determination overcame not only societal obstacles but stroke after shoulder-burning stroke for 12 miles of open sea. We salute Nick Gabaldon.